Through Outsiders' Eyes: Palestinian Walks

Not long finished reading "Palestinian Walks" by Raja Shehadeh, a Palestinian lawyer who lives in Ramallah and who founded Al-Haq human rights organisation before becoming an author. It was very helpful in increasing my knowledge after my visit to Israel and the West Bank and written in a very readable style. It is based around 7 hikes in the countryside of Palestine that the author made between the years of 1970 and 2007. My review is already posted on Amazon so I won't repeat that here. Palestinian Walks

Endeavouring not to quote too much, and thus breach copyright, I have selected a brief section from a conversation that Raja had when he stumbled on a gun-carrying Israeli settler on one of his walks (p 193-4 in the book). Settler is a term used for Israelis who live in Jewish only communities that have been built on land which is deemed to be Palestinian under international law. Settlements are seen as one of the five main issues that Israelis and Palestinians disagree on, as both Israelis and Palestinians know how difficult it will be for a resolution that gives Palestinians full access back to their land when there are, in many cases, large townships of Israelis living on Palestinian land. There was recently a temporary cessation of building of settlements at the request of the US government, but building has resumed. Shehadeh's conversation shows that even when Arabs and Jews live in close proximity, the barriers mean they still know nothing of each other.

"I suspected you were an Arab but was not sure. Arab's don't walk."

"How do you know that? Are you acquainted with many Arabs?"

"No. None at all."

"Then how did you come upon that conclusion?"

"Just from watching the village people nearby. I never see them taking walks or sitting by the water."

"Perhaps because they're afraid?"

"Why should they be afraid?"

"Because of you."

"Of me?"

"Yes aren't you carrying a gun?"

"I wish I wasn't. It's heavy and it's a burden. But as I said, I have to."

I couldn't help saying: "I suppose you do" in a heavily sarcastic voice though I regretted doing so almost immediately. I was inviting a fight when I had no stomach or inclination to get into one.

"What do you mean?" the settler snapped.

"To protect the land you've taken from us," I said in a matter of fact way, resigned to what was coming.

"We didn't take anyone's land. Dolev is built entirely on public land."

"Assuming it is, why should you be the only beneficiaries?"

"Because it was promised to us. All of Eretz Israel is ours."

"And where do you propose we live?"

"Eretz Israel" being the land included within the Biblical Promised Land. To understand the concept of how Israel determines "public land" within the Occupied Territories you'd have to read the book and if you're interested in such things I would certainly recommend it.